The 170bhp MultiAir is the one to have. I've had both this model and currently the 240bhp Veloce. The MultiAir engine and manual box was a lovely combination, really nicely balanced car. The TCT box (in the Veloce) is only usable in Dynamic mode - in Normal it changes into 6th all the time. In Dynamic it's ok, but it makes the steering too heavy. And it torque steers - the power is really too much for the chassis. But the 170bhp manual just feels fine in Normal mode, best Alfa I've had over a lifetime of them, I'd have one again.
I'd like to add that a Coop advert benefits immensely from having some really nice, carefully selected photographs of the car, as opposed to ones that look like they've just been quickly taken and thrown together.
After all, nice photos give the impression of someone who has taken an interest in the car during their time with it.
Of course something like a [enter make and model of car that is ridiculously popular and has a massive fan base] advert could have a single, rubbish, low resolution photo of the car next to an overflowing wheelie bin and it'll still probably get loads of interest but the Coop is a different story.
After 25 years of trying to buy it back, I finally succeeded in buying my grandfathers BSA FW32 back. He owned it from 1934 for over 50 years. It was sold to cover his care in old age. I’ve finally got it back - pick it up on Saturday
i have a shed full off new old stock original fiat and alfa parts that i sell on e-bay,sure i have those seals,if you cant get them closer to you in britain i can look to make sure i have them,and stick them up on e-bay to make postage easier.
I agree Graham that I'd expect a CV joint to be noisier when turning but this is definitely in a straight line. It's a very definite sharp clicking noise although not really heavy, ie a click not a bang, if that makes sense?
Also it is quite definitely louder if you accelerate harder.
I checked the engine mounts when the steering issue first arose, with a bar to rock the engine, and couldn't see anything amiss.
If the code light comes on and goes off after a second (as normal) then the engine ECU is happy with the code system (valid key detected) and the immobiliser is disabled, doesn't matter what happens with the code box after that until the ignition is switched off again. You can even unplug the code box completely once the code light has gone out and engine will start as normal, so I don't think you have an immobiliser problem unless the code box is crashing and switching off the light itself in which case the injection light would come on as the engine ECU wouldn't receive the expected commands from the code box.
Is injection light coming on as normal then going off and staying off during cranking or is it coming back on?
Can you hear relays clicking in passenger footwell during cranking? I wonder if you have a power/battery problem and cranking the starter is causing voltage to drop making the code box and engine ECU reset/reboot , switching the code light back on again and re-enabling the immobiliser in the ECU. You may see injection light coming back on in that case.
A long, slow battery discharge has been known to permanently corrupt the code box, causing some or all keys to no longer be recognised. Did you try with all available keys?
You can also try disconnecting battery for a minute to reset everything and pulling out and re-inserting both plugs at the code box itself (yellow box in dash above fuse box in driver's footwell), sometimes they can have a dodgy connection there.
I think there are two differant styles of fuel pump (at least) for the 20VT family. Very physically differant. I know this because I ordered the wrong one first, and had to buy the right one after ! Plus a bag of Oetiker clips and crimper, just to use one clip. You can crimp the clips with pliers or pincers as well, but i thought i'd buy the proper tool.
Agree with the contorted way that you need to use to get the pump pot back into the top of the tank - very fiddly !.